{"id":2264,"date":"2024-01-31T13:48:52","date_gmt":"2024-01-31T12:48:52","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.smws.ch\/?p=2264"},"modified":"2024-02-02T14:17:19","modified_gmt":"2024-02-02T13:17:19","slug":"lodeur-de-la-reussite","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.smws.ch\/fr\/lodeur-de-la-reussite\/","title":{"rendered":"L&rsquo;odeur de  la r\u00e9ussite"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><em><strong>Le tout premier embouteillage de la Scotch Malt Whisky Society, en 1983, \u00e9tait un whisky m\u00fbri au sherry provenant de la distillerie n\u00b0 1. Depuis, nous avons embouteill\u00e9 des milliers de f\u00fbts, mais alors que notre programme d\u00e9di\u00e9 \u00e0 l&rsquo;augmentation du volume et de la vari\u00e9t\u00e9 de whisky vieilli en sherry arrive \u00e0 maturit\u00e9, 2024 promet d&rsquo;\u00eatre une c\u00e9l\u00e9bration des f\u00fbts de sherry \u00e0 la Society, avec 12 mois de d\u00e9couvertes savoureuses de whisky devant nous.<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n<p>La passion de la Society pour le whisky vieilli en sherry remonte \u00e0 ses d\u00e9buts, mais si vous vous souvenez des ann\u00e9es pr\u00e9c\u00e9dant 2016, les f\u00fbts de sherry \u00e9taient tout simplement rares, ce qui a entra\u00een\u00e9 un changement de rythme. Pour comprendre l&rsquo;\u00e9volution de nos relations avec les f\u00fbts de sherry, il est utile de regarder en arri\u00e8re, mais cela ne d\u00e9finit plus l&rsquo;avenir du whisky de la SMWS.<\/p>\n<p>Ce premier embouteillage, le 1.1, \u00e9tait un whisky \u00e0 maturit\u00e9 compl\u00e8te en sherry. Mais depuis la premi\u00e8re mise sur le march\u00e9 d&rsquo;un whisky de la Society ayant subi une p\u00e9riode de maturation suppl\u00e9mentaire dans des f\u00fbts de sherry en 1991, beaucoup de choses ont chang\u00e9.<\/p>\n<p>\u00ab Dans les premiers temps de la Society, les f\u00fbts de sherry \u00e9taient achet\u00e9s remplis de whisky et l&rsquo;\u00e9quipe de la Society les faisait simplement remplir avec de l&rsquo;eau-de-vie nouvelle dans les distilleries, chaque fois que c&rsquo;\u00e9tait possible \u00bb, explique Kai Ivalo, directeur des spiritueux. N\u00e9anmoins, d\u00e8s 1996, il y a eu une premi\u00e8re tentative distincte de faire plus avec les navires andalous.<\/p>\n<p>Le directeur g\u00e9n\u00e9ral de l&rsquo;\u00e9poque, Richard Gordon, a fait tout son possible pour acheter des gordas de sherry. Il s&rsquo;agit d&rsquo;\u00e9normes f\u00fbts d&rsquo;un volume moyen de 600 litres, soit environ 20 % de plus qu&rsquo;un f\u00fbt de sherry standard. Ces g\u00e9ants sont ensuite devenus c\u00e9l\u00e8bres \u2013 ou tristement c\u00e9l\u00e8bres, car certaines des expressions les plus controvers\u00e9es que la Society ait jamais eu la chance ou le malheur (en fonction de l&rsquo;expression sp\u00e9cifique et de vos go\u00fbts) de remplir dans ses bouteilles vertes.<\/p>\n<p>J&rsquo;ai eu la chance de go\u00fbter quelques-uns de ces f\u00fbts, en commen\u00e7ant par le f\u00fbt n\u00b0 <em><strong>66.82 : Gritty-turned-pretty<\/strong><\/em>, \u00e0 plusieurs reprises, apr\u00e8s avoir achet\u00e9 une bouteille. Mais aussi le f\u00fbt n\u00b0 <em><strong>30.93 : Tonka Bean Cr\u00e8me Br\u00fbl\u00e9e<\/strong><\/em>, qui se trouvait sur le bar \u00e0 l&rsquo;\u00e9poque o\u00f9 je travaillais au 28 Queen Street. Quelle que soit votre opinion sur ces deux whiskies Profond, riche et fruits secs, vous ne risquez pas d&rsquo;oublier l&rsquo;exp\u00e9rience. J&rsquo;avais un faible pour eux, probablement en raison de la lourdeur et du tourbillon du distillat 66 et du fait que, bien qu&rsquo;il ne soit pas tourb\u00e9, le distillateur 30 a un esprit plus cr\u00e9meux et plus riche que beaucoup de ses pairs.<\/p>\n<p>Mais comme le dit Kai, \u00ab si on mettait un distillat l\u00e9ger dans un de ces gordas, il \u00e9tait pratiquement fichu \u00bb : \u00ab Si vous mettiez un distillat l\u00e9ger dans une de ces gordas, il \u00e9tait pratiquement ruin\u00e9 \u00bb. Ainsi, un spiritueux avec un peu plus de cran, de fum\u00e9e ou de texture grasse s&rsquo;est mieux comport\u00e9 que d&rsquo;autres gordas ant\u00e9rieures. En outre, les installations \u00e9tant ce qu&rsquo;elles \u00e9taient \u00e0 l&rsquo;\u00e9poque, \u00ab il n&rsquo;y a eu qu&rsquo;une poign\u00e9e de tr\u00e8s longues maturations suppl\u00e9mentaires, mais la Society n&rsquo;avait pas les ressources n\u00e9cessaires pour mettre en \u0153uvre un programme plus important de gestion des f\u00fbts \u00bb, explique Kai.<\/p>\n<h2>La Prochaine \u00c9tape<\/h2>\n<p>Puis vint l&rsquo;\u00e8re Glenmorangie \u00e0 partir de 2004, lorsque la Society re\u00e7ut un soutien important de Rachel Barrie et Bill Lumsden, offrant des f\u00fbts de sherry de leurs magasins \u00e0 la SMWS pour qu&rsquo;elle les remplisse et proc\u00e8de \u00e0 des maturations suppl\u00e9mentaires. Mais m\u00eame cela \u00e9tait loin d&rsquo;un programme de gestion des f\u00fbts de sherry \u00e0 part enti\u00e8re pour la Society. Comme le dit Kai : \u00ab Nous pouvions facilement faire des suppositions sur ces f\u00fbts, de sherry ou autres, et sur leur provenance, mais en v\u00e9rit\u00e9, nous ne pouvions pas en \u00eatre s\u00fbrs.<\/p>\n<p>\u00ab Tout ce que nous pouvons dire, c&rsquo;est que Glenmorangie exp\u00e9rimentait la finition et que nous avons pu utiliser certains f\u00fbts de Glenmorangie pour leur deuxi\u00e8me remplissage, de sorte qu&rsquo;ils \u00e9taient tous relativement nouveaux et actifs.<\/p>\n<p><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignleft wp-image-2257 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.smws.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/01\/img-outturn-artikel-2-fernandez-gao-bodega.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2400\" height=\"1597\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.smws.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/01\/img-outturn-artikel-2-fernandez-gao-bodega.jpg 2400w, https:\/\/www.smws.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/01\/img-outturn-artikel-2-fernandez-gao-bodega-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.smws.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/01\/img-outturn-artikel-2-fernandez-gao-bodega-1024x681.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.smws.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/01\/img-outturn-artikel-2-fernandez-gao-bodega-768x511.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.smws.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/01\/img-outturn-artikel-2-fernandez-gao-bodega-1536x1022.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.smws.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/01\/img-outturn-artikel-2-fernandez-gao-bodega-2048x1363.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2400px) 100vw, 2400px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Vous avez peut-\u00eatre eu la chance de go\u00fbter le Cask No. <em><strong>93.69 : Props for a hammer film<\/strong><\/em> ou <em><strong>33.139 : You would not believe!<\/strong><\/em> qui sont des f\u00fbts de cette \u00e9poque avec une profonde et riche influence du sherry.<\/p>\n<p>Apr\u00e8s s&rsquo;\u00eatre s\u00e9par\u00e9 de Glenmorangie en 2014, Kai se souvient : \u00ab Rachel Barrie nous a offert un grand nombre d&rsquo;anciens f\u00fbts de Glenmorangie, qui sont ensuite devenus le catalyseur de notre propre programme de maturation suppl\u00e9mentaire. \u00bb<\/p>\n<h2>Quantit\u00e9 et qualit\u00e9<\/h2>\n<p>Mais malgr\u00e9 les exp\u00e9riences de maturation suppl\u00e9mentaire et les campagnes de remplissage de f\u00fbts plus importantes men\u00e9es par les distilleries, la d\u00e9cision de miser sur le sherry ne s&rsquo;est impos\u00e9e qu&rsquo;en 2019. \u00ab \u00c0 l&rsquo;\u00e9poque, seulement 16 % de nos sorties provenaient d&rsquo;un f\u00fbt de sherry \u00bb, explique Kai. \u00ab Nous avons donc d\u00e9cid\u00e9 de viser plus haut \u00bb. Bien que le travail de l&rsquo;\u00e9quipe des spiritueux soit loin d&rsquo;\u00eatre termin\u00e9, pratiquement, on peut dire que cette ann\u00e9e, une bouteille sur trois sortant de notre cha\u00eene d&#8217;embouteillage a r\u00e9sid\u00e9 \u00e0 l&rsquo;int\u00e9rieur d&rsquo;un f\u00fbt de sherry, entre un minimum de deux ans et la totalit\u00e9 de sa maturation.<\/p>\n<p>Mais ce n&rsquo;est pas qu&rsquo;une question de quantit\u00e9, cette qu\u00eate d&rsquo;une plus grande quantit\u00e9 de malts de qualit\u00e9 \u00ab Deep, Rich &amp; Dried Fruits \u00bb a fondamentalement chang\u00e9 l&rsquo;approche de la Society en mati\u00e8re de gestion des f\u00fbts de x\u00e9r\u00e8s. Apr\u00e8s une \u00e9poque o\u00f9 la tra\u00e7abilit\u00e9 des r\u00e9cipients de maturation utilis\u00e9s \u00e9tait rarement totale, la Society a entam\u00e9 un tout nouveau chapitre, ax\u00e9 sur la plus haute qualit\u00e9 et la plus grande vari\u00e9t\u00e9 possible. Cette voie a n\u00e9cessit\u00e9 beaucoup de travail et d&rsquo;\u00e9normes investissements, mais elle a nettement am\u00e9lior\u00e9 le contr\u00f4le de la Society sur tous les aspects du processus de maturation. La collaboration avec les tonnelleries, par exemple, a permis \u00e0 Euan Campbell et \u00e0 l&rsquo;\u00e9quipe des spiritueux de la Society d&rsquo;offrir \u00e0 ses membres une multitude de nuances dans le spectre des saveurs, en jouant sur le type de ch\u00eane dont sont faits les f\u00fbts et sur la mani\u00e8re dont ils sont trait\u00e9s.<\/p>\n<p>Au-del\u00e0 du bois, la collaboration avec plusieurs bodegas en Espagne porte ses fruits et a permis \u00e0 Euan et Kai de commander des f\u00fbts fabriqu\u00e9s sp\u00e9cifiquement pour la Society, en utilisant diff\u00e9rents types de sherry. Il ne s&rsquo;agit pas non plus d&rsquo;assaisonner les f\u00fbts avec du sherry. Bien que chaque bodega proc\u00e8de diff\u00e9remment, certains de nos partenaires souhaitent embouteiller une grande partie, voire la totalit\u00e9, du x\u00e9r\u00e8s contenu dans les f\u00fbts fabriqu\u00e9s pour la SMWS, ce qui constitue un \u00e9norme vote de confiance. La qualit\u00e9 du vin et sa dur\u00e9e de maturation sont donc scrupuleusement contr\u00f4l\u00e9es afin de s&rsquo;assurer que les f\u00fbts fournissent la meilleure qualit\u00e9 de whisky une fois en \u00c9cosse.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignleft wp-image-2260 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.smws.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/01\/img-outturn-artikel-2-spinola.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2400\" height=\"1597\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.smws.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/01\/img-outturn-artikel-2-spinola.jpg 2400w, https:\/\/www.smws.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/01\/img-outturn-artikel-2-spinola-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.smws.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/01\/img-outturn-artikel-2-spinola-1024x681.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.smws.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/01\/img-outturn-artikel-2-spinola-768x511.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.smws.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/01\/img-outturn-artikel-2-spinola-1536x1022.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.smws.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/01\/img-outturn-artikel-2-spinola-2048x1363.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2400px) 100vw, 2400px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>En outre, de nombreux producteurs de sherry sont r\u00e9ticents \u00e0 se s\u00e9parer de leurs propres f\u00fbts, qu&rsquo;ils ont utilis\u00e9s pendant de nombreuses ann\u00e9es. En effet, un f\u00fbt bien utilis\u00e9 est un f\u00fbt parfait pour la plupart des producteurs de sherry, car ils ne recherchent traditionnellement pas les ar\u00f4mes de ch\u00eane. Malgr\u00e9 tout, l&rsquo;\u00e9tablissement de liens et de relations nous a permis d&rsquo;acc\u00e9der \u00e0 de v\u00e9ritables f\u00fbts de bodega, qui ont pass\u00e9 de nombreuses ann\u00e9es \u00e0 contenir du x\u00e9r\u00e8s avant de passer \u00e0 la maturation d&rsquo;un whisky SMWS. Il est int\u00e9ressant de noter que les trois premiers exemples de whiskies SMWS extra-matur\u00e9s dans d&rsquo;anciens f\u00fbts de bodega provenaient tous de la distillerie 125. Les f\u00fbts n\u00b0 <em><strong>125.77: Graceful elegance, 125.78: Refined rancio<\/strong><\/em> et <em><strong>125.79: Fabulous fruit fondants<\/strong><\/em>, c&rsquo;est qu&rsquo;ils ont tous m\u00fbri dans d&rsquo;anciens f\u00fbts PX de la bodega et qu&rsquo;ils ont tous \u00e9t\u00e9 class\u00e9s dans le profil de saveurs Sucr\u00e9, fruit\u00e9 et moelleux.<\/p>\n<p>En effet, il y a de nombreuses nuances d&rsquo;influence du sherry \u00e0 siroter et \u00e0 m\u00e9diter au-del\u00e0 de celles qui entrent dans la cat\u00e9gorie traditionnelle des vins profonds, riches et aux fruits secs. Nombre d&rsquo;entre elles semblent au Tasting Panel appartenir \u00e0 des profils tels que huileux et c\u00f4tier, \u00e9pic\u00e9 et doux, \u00e9pic\u00e9 et sec ou m\u00eame juteux, ch\u00eane et vanille, que l&rsquo;on associe traditionnellement aux f\u00fbts de bourbon.<br \/>\nCe n&rsquo;est pas que le sherry ne soit pas fort dans ces eaux-de-vie, elles en montrent simplement des facettes diff\u00e9rentes.<\/p>\n<p>Utilisez le lien ci-dessous pour en savoir plus sur la fa\u00e7on dont la Soci\u00e9t\u00e9 travaille avec les f\u00fbts de sherry gr\u00e2ce \u00e0 notre entretien avec Euan Campbell \u00a0: <a href=\"https:\/\/zx81.ch\/smws-sherry\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/zx81.ch\/smws-sherry<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p> [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":2256,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"default","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","ast-disable-related-posts":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"default","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"default","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"default","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center 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